For enthusiasts of alternative photography, contact printing is a rewarding process that allows for hands-on creation of beautiful prints. A crucial piece of equipment for this technique is a Printing Frame. While you can sometimes find second-hand frames, building your own printing frame offers customization and a deeper connection to the craft. This guide will walk you through the process of creating a functional and effective printing frame using basic tools and readily available materials.
Inspired by a resourceful approach to photography, this tutorial is based on the experience of crafting a printing frame from scratch. Initially, a repurposed picture frame served as a makeshift solution, highlighting the adaptability inherent in alternative processes. However, the need for a more robust and purpose-built frame led to the DIY project detailed below, ensuring better results and longevity in your contact printing endeavors.
Materials and Tools You’ll Need
Before you begin, gather the necessary materials and tools. This project requires minimal woodworking expertise and utilizes common tools that many DIY enthusiasts already possess.
- Wood:
- One length of Pine, 1/2″ square (for the inner frame and scallops).
- One length of Pine, 1/2″x 7/8″ (for the outer frame and rebate).
- Choosing straight lengths of wood is important for a square and even frame.
- Glass:
- A piece of 3/16″ glass, cut to fit inside the inner frame dimensions. (Approximately 14″ x 10″ or your desired print size).
- Backing Material:
- Modeler’s plywood (5 ply recommended for flatness and ease of cutting).
- Fasteners and Adhesives:
- Wood glue.
- Small wood screws.
- Gaffer tape.
- Carpet glue (or strong adhesive suitable for felt and wood).
- Finishing:
- Shellac varnish (or your preferred wood finish).
- Felt off-cuts.
- Tools:
- Saw.
- Mitre block and saw (for accurate corner cuts).
- Hand drill.
- Sandpaper.
- Frame maker’s corner clamp tool (optional, but helpful).
- Wet and dry paper.
- Bowl for water.
- Washing up liquid.
- Screwdriver.
- Measuring tape or ruler.
- Pencil.
Step-by-Step Guide to Building Your Printing Frame
Follow these steps to construct your own printing frame. Remember to work carefully and take your time for the best results.
1. Cutting the Wood for the Frame
Start by preparing the wood pieces. Using the 1/2″x 7/8″ pine, you will create the outer frame.
- Mitre Cuts: Begin by making a 45-degree cut at one end of the 1/2″x 7/8″ wood using a mitre block and saw.
- Measure and Cut: Measure 14 inches from the inside point of the mitre cut along the longer edge of the wood and make the second 45-degree mitre cut. This will be one side of your frame.
- Repeat for Remaining Sides: Use the first cut piece to measure and cut a second piece of the same length. These will be two opposing sides of your frame. Repeat this process to create two 10-inch lengths for the other two sides. Ensure accuracy in your measurements for a square frame.
- Corner Clamps: If you don’t have mitred corners experience, you can opt for right-angle joints. Simply cut the wood to the desired lengths without mitring and join them at 90-degree angles using wood glue. For extra strength with right-angle joints, consider using wooden dowels. Drill through the joints and insert glued dowels for a more secure connection.
2. Assembling the Frame
With the wood cut, you’ll now assemble the outer frame.
- Gluing the Corners: Apply wood glue to the mitred corners of the frame pieces.
- Clamping: Use a frame maker’s corner clamp tool or string and clamps to hold the corners tightly together while the glue dries. Ensure the frame is square during clamping.
- Drying Time: Allow the glue to dry completely, ideally overnight, for a strong bond.
3. Creating the Rebate for the Glass
To create a rebate that will hold the glass, you’ll build a second frame on top of the first. Use the 1/2″ square pine for this inner frame.
- Constructing the Inner Frame: Repeat the mitre cutting and frame assembly process from Step 1 and 2, using the 1/2″ square pine and ensuring the outer dimensions match the inner dimensions of the first frame you built. This inner frame will sit flush within the outer frame, creating the rebate.
- Adding Scallops (Optional): Before gluing the inner frame to the outer frame, consider adding scallops at the ends of the inner frame sides. These semi-circular cutouts make it easier to lift the back of the printing frame later.
- Gluing Inner and Outer Frames: Once the inner frame is assembled and scallops are cut (if desired), apply wood glue to the bottom of the inner frame and carefully position it on top of the outer frame, ensuring the outer edges are flush.
- Weighting and Drying: Place weights, such as bricks or heavy books, on top of the frames to apply pressure while the glue dries. Allow to dry overnight.
4. Adding the Glass
With the frame structure complete, it’s time to fit the glass.
- Glass Cutting and Edges: Take your frame to a glazier and request a piece of 3/16″ glass cut to fit snugly within the rebate of your frame. You can ask the glazier to soften the edges, or you can do this yourself at home.
- Smoothing Glass Edges: If you choose to smooth the edges yourself, use wet and dry paper and water with a bit of washing up liquid. Gently rub the edges of the glass until they are no longer sharp. This step enhances safety and prevents cuts during use.
- Fitting the Glass: Carefully place the smoothed glass into the rebate of your printing frame. It should fit snugly.
5. Making the Backing
The backing board holds the negative and printing paper in place.
- Cutting the Backing Board: Measure and cut the modeler’s plywood to fit snugly inside the back of the inner frame. It should be a single piece initially.
- Varnishing: Apply varnish to all wooden parts of the frame, except for the inside of the backing board (apply one coat only to the inside). Shellac is a good option as it penetrates the wood well and subsequent coats meld together effectively, providing a durable finish.
- Dividing the Back: Once the varnish is dry, cut the backing board in half.
- Hinging (Simplified): Instead of hinges, use gaffer tape to join the two halves of the backing board along the cut edge. This creates a simple hinge that is easy to manage and adjust.
6. Finishing and Securing the Back
The final steps involve adding felt and creating a system to secure the backing board.
- Adding Felt: Cut pieces of felt off-cuts to fit the inside of the backing board halves. Glue the felt to the backing board using carpet glue. The felt provides a soft surface that ensures good contact between the negative, paper, and glass, and adds a slight thickness to make the back sit correctly.
- Securing Blocks: Cut six small blocks of hardwood. These blocks will act as rotating catches to hold the backing board in place.
- Attaching Blocks: Position the backing board in the frame with a sheet of paper to ensure correct spacing. Screw the hardwood blocks onto the frame in positions that allow them to rotate and secure the backing board halves when turned. These blocks should pivot to hold or release the back.
Tips for Customization and Improvement
- Size Adjustment: Adapt the dimensions of the frame to suit your preferred print sizes.
- Alternative Materials: Explore using different types of wood or even repurposed materials for a unique frame.
- Sprung Back: For a more advanced project, you could attempt to incorporate springs to hold the back in place, similar to traditional printing frames, but this requires more complex woodworking skills. However, for ease of use, the wooden blocks provide a simple and effective solution.
- Enlarger Use: To use your frame under an enlarger, glue small blocks to each corner on the back of the frame. This will raise it slightly and make it easier to handle.
Conclusion
Building your own printing frame is a satisfying project that enhances your contact printing workflow. It’s a cost-effective alternative to purchasing ready-made frames, with the added benefit of customization. While the prints produced may not be inherently superior to those from a basic picture frame, a purpose-built printing frame like this offers significantly improved ease of use and ensures firm, even contact between the negative and printing paper, crucial for sharp and detailed contact prints. Embracing the DIY spirit in alternative photography allows for equipment customization and a deeper understanding of the craft. Even if your first attempt isn’t perfect, the experience gained and the functionality of a homemade printing frame make it a worthwhile endeavor.
