On your first encounter with Bali, Indonesia, one of the first visual elements you’re sure to notice is the striking black and white checked fabric that seems to be absolutely everywhere. From roadside stalls to grand hotels, this pattern is a constant presence. During my initial trip to Bali with my family, I remember seeing it at a pottery shop shortly after leaving the airport and wondering about its significance. In the United States, gingham conjures images of country kitchens, folksy decorations, and children’s clothing. What was it doing here in Bali?
Balinese pots displayed outside a roadside shop, some adorned with black and white gingham fabric, showcasing local craftsmanship and the integration of traditional textiles into everyday Balinese life.
It quickly became apparent that these black and white checks were more than just a decorative motif; they were woven into the very fabric of Balinese life. My travel guide offered no explanation, but the visual repetition sparked a question in my mind, leading to a simple observation about its pervasiveness:
A collage of four images showing the black and white gingham fabric wrapped around temple gods, lining roadsides, decorating hotel entrances, and displayed in shops, illustrating the fabric's widespread presence in Balinese settings.
After several return visits to Bali, where my son’s family now resides, I’ve begun to grasp the profound religious and cultural importance of this distinctive textile. Many are surprised to learn that Bali, unlike the majority-Muslim Indonesia, practices a unique form of Hinduism interwoven with Buddhism and ancestral worship, creating a rich tapestry of festivals and rituals.
An ornate Balinese hotel entrance featuring traditional carvings and black and white gingham fabric draped decoratively, highlighting the integration of cultural textiles in Balinese architecture and hospitality.
A shop in Bali displaying various Balinese crafts and decorations, including black and white gingham textiles, offering a glimpse into the local artistry and the fabric's role in Balinese aesthetics.
Bali might be uniquely defined by its signature textile design. Unlike national symbols like the stars and stripes, Bali’s black and white checks carry deep spiritual weight. They represent Rwa Bhineda, the Balinese philosophy of balance and harmony, echoing the Chinese concept of yin and yang. The contrasting squares symbolize the essential duality of existence: day and night, joy and sorrow, good and bad, order and chaos.
A surfer carrying a surfboard walking on a Balinese beach with the ocean and sky in the background, symbolizing Bali's blend of natural beauty and cultural depth, attracting visitors seeking both relaxation and spiritual enrichment.
This philosophy of balance perfectly complements Bali’s reputation as a haven for relaxation and tranquility. Whether it’s the serene beaches, luxurious resorts, or peaceful countryside, the island offers a sanctuary for those seeking respite. Coupled with exquisite cuisine and breathtaking landscapes of rice terraces, jungles, and cultural attractions, Bali provides a holistic experience of rejuvenation.
A young Balinese boy dressed in traditional attire standing in front of a temple, wearing a black and white gingham patterned sarong, illustrating the cultural significance of the fabric in Balinese religious and daily life.
Rwa Bhineda fosters tolerance and appreciation for opposing forces. Balinese children are taught to navigate life’s dualities, understanding that sorrow is temporary and joy will return, and conversely, to not become overly ecstatic with joy as sadness may follow. Embracing this balance is key to Balinese philosophy.
Close-up of bolts of Poleng fabric, showcasing the traditional black and white gingham pattern and its availability in local Balinese textile shops, emphasizing its cultural importance and accessibility.
Known locally as Poleng, this fabric is sold in textile shops, but it’s not typically used for everyday clothing. Instead, Poleng is reserved for specific purposes. Priests wear it during ceremonies, and street musicians performing on festival days don the distinctive pattern. Security officers wear Poleng headbands and sarongs, as the fabric is believed to represent their role in distinguishing between opposing forces – good and bad, order and chaos.
Every Balinese shrine includes a prasada, an offering to deities or spirits. Visitors quickly learn to be mindful of these offerings, often placed on sidewalks in small baskets containing flowers, food, and incense. Each morning, traditionally dressed women can be seen making their rounds, replenishing prasada and lighting incense at each shrine.
A vibrant Balinese temple festival scene with people in traditional attire, many wearing Poleng gingham patterned fabrics, participating in religious ceremonies and celebrating community and balance.
The beauty and solemnity of Poleng are particularly evident during temple ceremonies. At the 30th-anniversary celebration of Pura Dalem Warung temple in Canggu, the fabric was prominently displayed. As a participant named Kadek explained, “Offerings were made to nature in thanks for the air we breathe, which sustains life.” Amidst the balletic movements and resonant sounds of the celebration, Poleng stood as a powerful symbol of balance, reminding all present of the delicate harmony of life and death, a profound concept at the heart of Balinese culture. The opportunity to witness such a deeply meaningful event was truly a privilege.
